House of Holland: Virtually Scottish (Fashion Wire Daily)

London - The hottest and hippest show to attend in London this season is House of Holland, a witty collection of fashion in-joke clothes and a brand thats won an insider following of considerable fervor.

For fall 2008 the labels founder and designer, Englishman Henry Holland, created his own virtual Scottish clan, replete with a "family" tartan and imagined crest. Unlike many designers, a surprisingly serious lot with a deeply evolved sense of their own importance, Holland, the proud owner of a degree in journalism, has a great sense of humor.

Being an admirer of the absurd, Holland made his tartan in his signature colors like canary yellow and washed out turquoise, i.e., about as far away from Hogmanay as you could image. His logo featured a figure working out lazily, reminiscent of Fellinis Amacord, who turned out to be his muse and former flat mate, uber model Agyness Deyn, and a dashing knight in armor. "Thats me actually, except I upgraded me profile and improved the nose," Henry cracked to FWD:

Holland even got his Latin scholar dad to dream up his own motto "Passio Factionis," meaning passion for fashion. All this would matter little if the clothes were mediocre, but they turned out to be very good.

Deyns opening outfit a mini kilt and school gal jacket with matching mountaineers high heels boots and gray T-Shirt with crest made her the poshest of punkettes, a great first date look if youre for an evening with the girl who wants to have more than just mere fun.

Two colored mohair jumpers, suggestive wee suits loose turquoise wool, a fab kilted warp dress with buttons and some cool upper class bondage pants - that reminded this reviewer of his own Johnny Rotten moment in CBGBs so long ago – all made for a natty stylistic moment.

Staged in a wacky old brick factory under a battered train bridge in funky East London, the show was agreeably shambolic - a gang of blaggers, Anglo Speak for freeloaders, pinched senior buyers and editors front row seats. But that only added to the sense of energy at this show by Holland.

He may still be very clearly on a learning curve, but Holland sure gets it. And if one thing is certain about this week in London it is that we will be hearing and seeing and wearing lots more about and by Henry Holland.