Louis Vuitton: Little Tramp Insouciance (Fashion Wire Daily)

Paris - Theres a fine line between understated and dull, a narrow gap twixt quiet elegance and predictable formulism, and one cleverly negotiated – happily on the right side - at Louis Vuitton on Thursday in Paris when it presented its latest mens collection.

Inspired, albeit pretty loosely on Charlie Chaplin, the collection used elements of the Little Tramps look and, above all, his unique insouciance to create some charming and probable clothes.

In an odd introduction, Vuittons creative director Marc Jacobs greeted the more distinguished guests on the stairway of the Palais de Tokyo, as the mens design director Paul Helbers made the last minute adjustments back stage. Then, after the lights went up and the audience stilled, a last lone guest elicited a huge burst of laughter as he appeared flustered and alone on the runway.

It was a cleverly choreographed show, with a long opening section in white and solid black finale. However, it was apparent from the get go that Vuittons tramp was that rare sort, i.e. one with a private education and a first rate maid, particularly adapt at ironing. Mini mess jackets and crisp shirts in linen are not good items for sleeping rough. Yet the sense of Chaplin was just enough apparent in the baggy, nipped at ankle trousers and slouch hat worn by a particularly dashing casting of models.

Vuitton also looks like its got a great crop of new bags; even of the presentation was way off. They were obviously empty and made the young men carrying them look far too posed. Yet, other accessories did impress; from the faux war medals in silver with black gros grain ribbon.

And in a season of color clocking - from Jil Sander to Alexander McQueen - Helbers managed to hit the subtlest note with a delightfully cool shirt with shades of rose and lilac with a tuxedo wing collar.

Backed up a great soundtrack by Tindersticks, based on samples the band took from songs composed by Chaplin for "Limelight," the 1952 comedy he wrote, directed and starred in, this was a succinct fashion display, a fine personal success for Helbers.