Givenchy: Tisci Does Gothic Romanticism for Guys (Fashion Wire Daily)

Paris - One sure could not fault Riccardo Tisci for failing to have a go in his debut collection for Givenchy, a take no prisoners collection of Gothic romanticism that was intriguing as it was commercially quirky.

"Sex, gothic, religion and romanticism. Just like my womens fashion," was Tiscis explanation of the inspiration for the collection, shown in the Bourdelle Museum in Montparnasse on an athletic cast of models and beefy guys.

In his three years at Givenchy, Tisci has re-established that house as a proper player in couture and womens luxury ready-to-wear with a fashion take that mixes snappy tailoring with a cool, yet historic, ladylike elegance. So, his first mens show for the house was the most anticipated collection of the current Paris season.

There was a respectable quotient of Neapolitan influence tailoring, sleek tuxedos with that soft southern shoulder and convincingly lean pants. But many of the models actually wore shorts, in rose cotton or a printed handkerchief fabric. These were often paired with simple rocker black T-shirts with Latin lettering and punky emblems. Waxy linen baseball jackets, chain mail tank tops and some very natty scarves with hundreds of grommets also impressed.

But, in truth this was a perplexing collection; an extended work in progress by a designer who clearly has lots to say in mens fashion, but is still working out the grammar and, for that matter, the syntax.